Afternoon delights: teatime in Dublin
Words and images by Emily Cathcart
As Henry James said, “There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” The quiet hum of conversation, crisp white linens, delicate fine china and gleaming cutlery—what could be nicer than a ‘proper’ tea with all the trimmings?
What may seem to the uninitiated to be a glorified cuppa and a light snack is, in reality, a decadent treat that never fails to satisfy. Genteel atmospheres and elegant accessories provide a refreshing pause during a city break, or just a chance to catch up on the latest gossip with a friend you haven’t seen in a while.
Then there’s the procession of food—dainty sandwiches, flaky scones, adorable little cakes. If you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply want to add a rosy, soft-focus glow to proceedings, Champagne teas offer the chance to start with a glass of fizz before you get stuck in. And these days, you might even find a tea-infused cocktail or two on the menu.
So where did it all begin? Anna Maria Russell, the 7th Duchess of Bedford is credited with the ‘invention’ of what is now an institution. As afternoons wore on at Woburn Abbey with breakfast a distant memory, the duchess became peckish waiting for the evening meal (customarily served after 8pm in the grand English country house).
To stave off what she called ‘that sinking feeling’, she began taking tea and light refreshments in her rooms in the late afternoon. After it became her regular habit, friends were asked to join the duchess, making it more of a social occasion. The idea caught on, migrating from ladies’ private rooms into their public drawing rooms, and soon everyone who was anyone in fashionable society was taking part.
As the duchess demonstrated, it’s always good to share—and tea for two is one of the best ways to enjoy the experience. Over the years my Mum and I have observed this ritual whenever we’re both on the same continent (which isn't often enough), from The Four Seasons in New York to The Dorchester in London and beyond. When I moved to Dublin, we were looking forward to sampling the local offerings.
Our quest for afternoon tea transcendence in Ireland’s capital began at The Merrion Hotel. The five-star Merrion’s ‘Art Tea’ dishes up delicious edible morsels of 19th and 20th century art, featuring creations inspired by their own impressive collection. The recent addition of a Vegan Afternoon Tea option is a nice touch. Presented to us beside a crackling fireplace in the gracious Georgian Drawing Rooms, it’s a memorable two-course, two hour experience.
The next five-star location in our sights was the venerable Shelbourne Hotel, on St Stephen's Green. After walking through the marble lobby, we wandered into the elegant Lord Mayor's Lounge. As piano music tinkled and crystal chandeliers twinkled, we were treated to a great view of the Green itself. Their self-styled “symphony of gentle indulgence” features pots of tea, sandwiches and a tiered stand groaning with scones and tiny desserts.
For a more modern five-star setting, we visited The Dylan Hotel near busy Baggot Street. Their Tipsy Tea, served in the stylish Dylan Bar or intimate Ruby Room, features the traditional finger sandwiches and warm scones with clotted cream and preserves—but mixes it up with gently infused boozy desserts. A selection of themed cocktails complements the food perfectly. And if you have occasion to visit the ladies’ room, do—it’s magnificent.
Afternoon teas of this calibre may seem a tad expensive, but the sheer relaxation and luxury of the experience justifies the price tag. As does the amount of food—as the duchess intended, these ‘little’ meals certainly do take the edge off any hunger pangs. In fact, you might plan a late dinner—or skip it altogether.